Sewing machine



` Feb. 9, 1937. H. u. ERNST 2,070,200

SEWING MACHINE Filed Dec. 2, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 j ma, Q47 J0 auf l .BY

ATTORNEYS.

Feb. 9, 1937. H, J ERNST 2,070,200

SEWING MACHINE "iled Dec. 2, 1933 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORNEYS.

Feb. 9, 1937. H, J, ERNST 2,070,200

SEWING MACHINE Filed nec. 2, 195s 's sheets-sheet s la?` @d ma /oz GJ. if 03 104 m7" J .1" f S INVENTOR. MTM 10.12 ai l J.

30.' provide a type of sewing machine in which the Patented Feb. 9, 1937- UNITED vfs'rirras PATENT olfFlCi4 'f i,a'zazon* sEwnvG'MaCmNlz-r Henry J. Ernst, Southgate, Ky'.,sssigl lor of onehalf to .Edward C. Ernst, Newport, Ky.

Application December z, 1933, serial No. 'zooazs '14 claims. (ci. liz-13o) My invention relates primarily to sewing inachines adapted for the sewing of a tape or strip upon a fabric, body or work piece. For the purpose of a disclosure of my invention, I shall de- 'scribe it in an exemplary embodiment whichhas .to do with the sewing of channel ytape on the insoles of shoes. In onetype of shoe manufacture a channel tape is sewed to the insole, and the upper is in turn attached to this channel tape.

Hitherto it has been the practice to run the insole through the machine bottom side.up,` and sew the tape thereto from-above. This has cery tain disadvantages inherent both in the process ing the sewing operation necessitates the` provision of feeding means for4 the tape located above 'the work. This is inconvenient and cumbersome and frequently precludes' the use of desirable mechanical adjuncts such as means -for severing the tape and automatic or semifautomatic means for feedingit when'desired.

f It is therefore an object of my invention to tape will be guided beneath the insoleor other Again, the operation ofsewing tape work piece into a proper position for sewing, thus n is an object of mymvennon to Vprovide means `forguiding the tape positively, so that n 'ot only will it be 'caughtwby the needle but so.

that the line of stitching formed in the tapemay be properly positioned therein. It' will' be understood that in sewing channel tape to insoles, it is desirable to have the line of stitching come auxiliary feeding means for the 'tape in the preferred form of lmy invention, so that when the operator releases 4the tape for feeding it will be V fed into aposition to be caught'by the line of stitching without any-supplementary action on the part of the operator.

It is also an object of my invention to provide' means whereby the operator can render the supplementary feeding means 'inoperative so that ployed in the modication shown in Flgsrll and.

other mod ication. j Fig. 12 is a sectional view ,on the line |2 it of y stitching can. be done without including the tape, while the tape will be held in a position for further feeding when desired.

Another object of my invention is to provide means for cutting the tape, which means as will 5 hereinafter be set forth, have a novel mode of operation. y

Another object of my invention is to provide .means for raising the presser foot or roll and cutting the tape by one motion of the operation, 10 these means being of a character to permit a variable .lapse of time between the operations just referred to.

It is still another object of my invention to provide variable and adjustable guiding means l5 for-the vinsole or other work piece, whereby the operator can insure the provision of the desired uniform or variable margin between the tape and the edge of the work piece.

'I'his and other objects of my invention which 262 will. b setforth hereinafter or will be apparent to vone skilled -in the art upon reading these specifications, I accomplish by that certain construction and arrangement of parts ofwhich l shall no`w describe a preferred embodiment.

Reference is now made to the drawingsf'which iorm a part hereof and in which:

Figure l is a perspective view of a sewing mathroat plate and sole guiding means, with parts cut away to show the cornstruction. Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken on the line MOIFIEZZ.

Fig. 4 is a Seemann 'view of me sole guide 35 taken on the lineW--l of Fig. 2. y'

Fig. 5 shows the underside of a special'type of `insole with lthe attaching tape stitched in place.

' Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the tape cutting mechanism,` taken on the line G-S of Fig. 2. 40

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the throat plate in a modiiledform of my invention.

1 Fig. B is a sectional view on the line B-O of gig. 9 is a sectional view on vthe line 9 9 of 45 Fgl?. jf c 'g Fig. 101s aperspective view of the guide and.

`knlfeof the modification shown in Figs. 7 to 9.

Fig. l1 is a plan view of the throat plate in an- Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the cutter em- Briey, in the practice of my invention, I provide a sewing machine of conventional design, illustrated generally at i. This machine has a needle 3, and a presser wheel d. The insole being sewed is indicated at 5, and the tape which is to be sewed to it is shown at 6.

The feed mechanism, best shown in Fig. 3, comprises an oscillating link 'i pivoted at i8, an oscillating link 8 pivoted at ii, and the feed bar 5, pivoted at the free ends of links l and 8, at i4 and l5 respectively. The directions of oscillation of links l and 5 are indicated by arrows.

.through a hole Il in the throat plate i8.

The toothed feed dog i3 is fastened to the -feed bar 9 by means of the screws i2. The motion of the feed dog i3 resulting from those impressed upon links l and 8, is upward, then to the left, then downward and then to the right, roughly counterclockwise. The pivoted connection at l5 has been shown variable, in order to permit of an adjustment of the stroke of the feed dog.

A guide, indicated generally at i5, is provided to direct the tape into the machine and up At the entrance of this guide, a roller i611 is provided to reduce frictional wear on the tape. A toothed tape feed dog i9 is attached to the feed bar 9 by the screw 2l],-and operates through an opening 2i in the guide E6. Pivoted at. 22 within the guide i6, is a rocking lever 23. The end 25 of this lever provides a backing for the feed dog i9, and the other end -terminatesin a prong 2li. The lever 23 is maintained in the position shown in Fig. 3 by means of a tension spring 26, attached at one end to the frame of the machine at 2i and at the other end to the pin 28 whichis rigidly mounted in the lever 23. The pin 28 projects through a sector slot 28 in the guide iii. A rod 30 lis journaled under the bed of the machine at 3l and 32 (Fig.'2). The end 33 of rod 38 is bent at a right angle to the main part of the rod, and the torsion spring 35 keeps the rod 88 turned so that its end 33 is maintained out of contact with the pin 28. The other end 36 of the rod 38 is also bent at right angles to the main part of the rod, but in the opposite direction to the end 33, and is provided with a-push button 34 which projects through the table of the machine.

Pressure exerted by the operator on push butand the tape is restrained from any further ad-. `Vance into the machine, or from falling out of the guide.

In the stitching operation itis desirable to have the seam follow the outlines of the''nsole at a,

variable Vdistance from its edge. To this end I provide a guiding device indicated generally at.

I in Fig. 1. Referring more particularly to Figs. 2 and 4, I provide a base plate 38 and a cover plate 39, held apart by spacers 40, and all fastened together and to the machine table by the screws 4 l 'I'he spacers 40 together with the base plate 38 and the cover plate 35], formk a guide within which a bar 42 is slidably retained. The bar 42 is provided at its right hand end with a shoulder 48, and along one edge near its center, with the rack I teeth 44.' The torsioxfspring 45, fastened to the aoraaoc d3, tends to keep the bar 42 at the right hand limit of its travel. A pinion 48 is also mounted on a shaft 49 between the base plate 38 and the cover plate 35, and meshes with the rack lili in the bar 42. A driving force imparted to the shaft 48 is transmitted to the pinion i8 by means of a set screw 50 in the hub 5I of the pinion 48, so that upon rotation of the shaft 49 in aclockwise direction (Fig. 2), the bar llfl'will be slid to the left. Any suitable means of motivation may be provided for the shaft 159, such as a foot pedal or knee press, and the connections to such means,

are indicated generally at 52.

A guide roll Support 53 is hinged to the bar [s2 near its left hand end by means of the pin 54, and the roll 55 is rotatably mounted on a vertical pin through the left vhand end of the support 53. A heavy wire lifter foot 56, the function of which will be described later, is soldered onto the left hand end of the support 53. Mounted on the bar 152 near the pivot 54 by means of the screw 5S, is an angle piece 5l forming an upstanding shoulder, and a flat spring 58. The purpose of the spring is to keep the support 53 in the position shown in Fig. 4. The cover plate 39 is slotted as at 60 to provide clearance for the upstanding shoulder 5l on the bar d2, and a part of the cover plate which formerly occupied the space 60 is turned up vertically to form an upstanding lug 6I. A second upstanding lug, similar to lug 6i is provided at .the other end of the cover plate at 62. Mounted in these upstandinglugs 5i and 62 are adjusting screws 63, provided with lock nuts 56. By an adjustment of screws 63, the operator may define the extent of variation of the margin between the seam and the edge of the insole. Thus by the operation of a p edal or kneepress (not part of this invention, and therefore not illustrated) the above-mentioned margin may be varied. A release of pressure on the pedal or knee-lift causes a movement of the gear 48 in a counterclockwise direction, which will slide the bar 42 toward Vthe right, aided by the action of the spring 45, thereby increasing the margin between the seam and the edge of the insole, until the shoulder 5'! strikes its stop pin 63, defining the maximum margin; the above motions are reversed when pressure is applied to the pedal or knee-press against the tension of the spring 45, until the shoulder i3 strikes its stop pin 63, defining the minimum margin.

If soles are being made for a shoe with a built in arch support, another problem arises. A sole of this type is illustrated in Fig. 5, and it will be seen that such a sole has a salient portion 65.

It will also appear from a study of this figure, that the' seam 6 does not follow the outline of this salient portion, and that therefore the margin between the edge of the insole and the seam at this point is substantially greater than( any variation permitted by the'above described device. At this stage, the utility of the wire lifter foot 56 becomes apparent. This member 56, seen in elevation in Fig. 3, has an upturned toe portion, so that if, when the salient portion '65 of the sole is reached, the operator will manually guide the sole straight into the machine, the lifter foot 56 will ride upover theportion 65 and raise the arm k53 with its guide roll 55 against the action of the spring 58, and thus remove the `roll from its operative position, permitting the sole to be fed straight into the machine, regardless of the marginal limitation imposed byfthe adjustment of the screws 63. The portion'-li5 of the' insole is usually skived to a bevel, which obstacle.

greauy assists the foot se in surmountmg this I shall now proceed to a deseription'of the tape cutting mechanism, bestV illustrated in Fig. 6. lA rod 66 is reciprocably mounted in a bearing in the frame of the machine below the table. A cutter supporting bracket 61 is attached to the left hand end of the rod 66 by means of ascrew 6 8, and the knife 69 is mounted upon the bracket 61 by means of the screws 18. A helical spring 86 attached to the right hand end of the rod 66, and to the frame by the screw 8|, tends to keep lthe rod 66 in the position shown in Fig. 6. A stop collar 1| is provided to limit the cutting stroke of the knife, and a collar 12 with `a lug 13 is adjustably mounted on the rod 66. The connecting link 15 has a transverse hole through its left hand end, into whichthe lug 18 is tted,

y and retained by a cotter pin 14. Member 15 is 20' provided with a longitudinal hole l16. The rod 11 is threaded over approximately two-thirds of its length, and ground to slidingly iltv the bore 16 in the member 15 at its other end. A pair of lock nuts `19`are threaded onto the rod 11, and the ground end is inserted into the bore 16 in the member 15. The right hand end of the rod 11 is attached to the usual knee lift operated presser wheel control, 83. 84. A

The operation of this device is as follows: An outward pressure on the right knee lift rotates the rod 84 in a counter-clockwise direction and'is immediately effective to start the presser wheel 4 upward. 'I'he counter-clockwise rotation of the rod 84 is transmitted to the rod 83, with the result of moving the rod 11 toward the left. By reference to Fig. 6 it will be seen that this movement has no effect other than to slide the` rod 11 into the bore 16 until the lock nuts 19 abut 'the member 15. At this point the motion begins to lnuts 19 on the thread 18.

Figa? to 10 illustrate one modication of my invention. Here the cutting device previously described is simplified. The throat plate is made in two sections 86 and 81, and two slots 88 and 89 are milled in section 81 at right angles to each other. When the sections 86 and 81 are assembled, these slots form guides, slot 88 for the tape,

and slot 89 for the cutter. A hole 96' communicates with the guide 88, for the purpose of bringing the tape out onto the top of the throat plate, and a resilient checking strip 92 projects through a hole 9| in the section 81, out into the guide 88. This strip prevents the-tapefrom sliding'backward when it is severed. Slider 93 is reciprocably mountedl in the guide 89. This slider' is provided .with a wedge-shaped end 96, which acts as a guide to assist in forcing the tape upthrough the hole 96 (Fig. 8). -Upon the slider 93 is mounted the knife 94, by means of the screws 95, and the slider is provided with a knob 91, which projects up through the slot 98 in the section 86. .In` this mod-ication it is merely necessary to push the knob 91 towardthe left. in order to sever the tanec A slight modification of the devicejust described,.is illustrated-in Figs. 11 to 13. again the throat plate ismade in two sections 99 and |66. A tape slot |6| is milled in the Sec-- Here tion- |66, and the tape ,is brought out onto the top of the throat plate through a communicating hole |62 in the section 99. An irregular clearance space I 6 (outlined by broken lines in Fig. 11) is milledin the undersideof the section 99. The member |64, drilled at |65, is provided at one end with a cutting edge |61, and at the oth'er end with a knob |68 jwhich projects through a sector slot |69 in the section 99. The member` |64 is mountedbetween the sections y99 and |66. and pivoted at |66 so as to oscillate in the clearance space ||6 within the limits of the sector slot |69.

/In sewing the attaching tape to the insole on lmy machine, assuming that a sole has just been finished, and the tape has been cut, I place the new sole in position `and startthe machine. Several stitches will be made in the insole alone before the tape has been advanced sufciently to be engaged bythe needle. I now move the pedal or knee press controlling the guide, so that the margin between the seam and the edge of the insole conforms. to specifications. When I reach the end of one seam, I stop the machine momentarily, pushthe right hand knee press outward cutting the tape, and then press the button 34 vpreventing the tape from furtherV advancing into the machine. lI then restart the machine and continue until the needle takes three or four stitches past the end of the tape. Then I turn the sole, position it, release the button 34 and continue` as above. The fact that several additional stitches are taken beyond the end of the tape at each end, insures that these endsy are firmly sewed, and will not easily tear out.

It is'to be understood that different forms of my preferred embodiment may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Pat` ent, isz

l. In a sewing machinethe combination of a'throat for the passage of Ya tape, said throat being adapted to guide said tape into a position for sewing, a main sewing machine feed and a supplementary feed for moving a tape in said throat, means for rendering said second feed inoperative on said tape, said means concurrently acting to prevent a withdrawal of said tape from said throat.

2. In a sewing machine, a throat for feeding and guidingtape in a position to, be sewn, and means for severing said tape along a plane at an acute angle to the general plane of said tape, said means comprising a knife movable in a substantially horizontal plane. i

3. In a sewing machine, a throat for guiding a tape into a position to be sewn to an overlying 'worli piece, said throat adapted to permit the passage of said tape in a substantially horizontal plane but to bend said tape out of said plane and into a second displaced substantially horizontal plane, and a substantially horizontal- ,ly movable knife adapted to sever said tape in the bent portion thereof. I

4. In a sewing machine, a throat for feeding and guiding a tape in a position to be sewn to an overlying work piece, a main feed dog for said" sewing machine, a supplementary feed dog 5. In a sewing machine adapted for sewing tape on a superposed work piece, guide means for said tape 'adapted to deliver said tape into a position to be sewn, a severing means for said tape comprising a substantially horizontally reciprocating knife adapted to make a vbeveled cut in said tape, and operating means for said knife adapted to be actuated by an operator at will.

6. In a sewing machine adapted for sewing tape on a superposed work piece, guide means for said tape adapted to deliver said tape into a position to be sewn, a severing means for said tape comprising a substantially horizontally reciprocating knife adapted to make a beveled cut in said tape,

vand operatingmeans for said knife adapted to be actuated by an operator at will, a presser foot for said sewing machine, and an operative connection between said severing knife and said presser foot for producing coaction thereof.

'7. In a sewing machine adapted for sewing tape on a superposed work piece, guide means for said tape adapted to deliver said tape into a position to be sewn, a severing means for said tape comprising a substantially horizontally reciprocating knife adapted to make a beveled cut ber lying within a channel in the bed of said in said tape, and operating means for said knife adaptedto be actuated by an operator at will, a presser footv for said sewing machine, and an operative connection between said severing knife and said presser foot for producing coaction thereof, said operative connection including an adjustable lost motion device. l

8. In a sewing machine, a throat plate, a channel in said throat-plate adapted to deliver a tape into a position for sewing, feed means for said tape, and means inA said throat plate for preventing the rearward withdrawal of said tape whilev permitting its forward movement, said last mentioned means becoming operative only upon the rendering inoperative of said feed4 means.

9. In a sewing machine, a throat plate, a channel in said throat plate adapted to deliver a tape into a position for sewing, said means adapted to bend said tape out of one horizontal plane vfor delivery into an opposite horizontal plane, anda knife movable in said throat plate for severing said tape in the bent portion thereof.

10. In a sewing machine, atape guiding member lying within a channel in the bed of said sewing machine, said member having means for guiding a tape into a position to be sewn and for bending said tape while so guided, and a knife movable to make a beveled cut in said tape in the bent portion thereof. .I

11. In a sewing machine, a. tape guiding member lying within a channel in the bed of said sewing machine, said member having means for guiding a, tape into a position to be sewn and for bending said tape while so guided, and a knife movable to make a beveled cut in said tape in the bent portion thereof, a main feed means for said sewing machine, and a supplementary feed means for engaging said tape in said guiding means.

12. In a sewing machine, a tape guiding member lying within a channel in the bed of said sewing machine, said member having means for guiding a tape into a position to be sewn and for bending said tape while so guided, and a knife movable to make a beveled cut in said tape in the bent portion thereof, a main feed means for said sewing machine, and a supplementary feed means for engaging said tape in said guiding means, a tiltable member in said guiding means, one end thereof being adapted to press said tape against said feed means, the other end thereof being adapted alternatively to engage said tape yto hold it from withdrawal from said guiding operating means for said tiltable member having means for engagement for actuation by an operator.

13. In a sewing machine, a tape guiding memsewing machine, said member having means for guiding a tape into a position to be sewn and for bending said tape while so guided, and a knife movable to make a beveled cut in saidtape in the bent portion thereof, a main feed means for said sewing machine, and a supplementary feed means for engaging said tape in said guiding means, a tiltable member in said guiding means, one end thereof being adapted to press said tape against said feed means, the other end thereof being adapted alternatively to engage said tape to hold it from withdrawal from said guiding means when released from said feed means, operating means for said tiltable member having means for engagement for actuation by an operator, and means for normally holding said tilting member in tape feeding position.

14. In a sewing machine adapted for sewing tape on a work piece, means for guiding said tape into a' position to be sewn, said means comprising a throat means and means for preventing rearward withdrawal of said tape therefrom, means for severing said tape with a beveled cut as said tape is so guided, operating means therefor accessible to the operator of said sewing machine, and a guide for the work piece overlying.

said tape, said guide comprising movable means,

operating means therefor accessible to the oper-r ator of said sewing machine, and abutment means for said work piece attached to said movable means.

HENRY J. ERNST. 

